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African Surface Pattern Design: A Discipline in Need of Appreciation

smiling african man sitting among stacks of handmade bowls. image: Pexels/ Fatima Yusuf
Image: Pexels/ Fatima Yusuf

Author: Teresa Lubano

Date: 23rd May 2025

Surface pattern design is all around us — from the fabric of our cushions to the wallpaper on our walls, from ceramic cups to floor coverings. Yet, in many parts of Africa, including Kenya, this vital form of design is under-recognised, underutilised, and underappreciated.

According to Silver, E. (2022), “Surface pattern design is the act of creating art for the surface of mass-manufactured products. As the name suggests, this is primarily artwork that repeats in a pattern in its most true form.”

Alternatively, one could also define surface pattern design as:

The design of surfaces affects the appearance of everything we see and touch, e.g. interiors, exteriors, floors, land, gardens, ceilings, and lightning [sic], as well as everything we use, such as decorative objects, cutlery, crockery, etc. (Briggs-Goode & Townsend, 2011, p. 89).

In her thesis, Tonje Johnson (2017) emphasizes that “surface pattern design is concerned with repetition, joint, order, and scale, and that it has a strong impact on aesthetics and spatiality—yet it is often given low priority within design processes”. Africa is no exception.

Today, most surface pattern design is consumed in digital formats. When one examines the dominant surface pattern libraries globally, it becomes clear that they are overwhelmingly filled with Western and Eastern motifs. Few are owned or curated by African designers. Africa’s visual identity—so rich, so layered—is still vastly underrepresented in this space (Lubano & Odundo, 2022).

Moreover, many African countries are net importers of finished goods—and this has shaped how we relate to product design. Most of what we consume arrives fully assembled: mass-produced, packaged, and ready to use. And the surface pattern design? You guessed it—often Eurocentric or Asian in origin. Rarely do we witness a product’s journey from initial sketch to final form. As a result, the crucial stage of design—especially visual design—remains largely invisible to many of us.

That means that while we celebrate Africa’s beadwork, sculpture, and painting in traditional and fine art spaces—and while curios and artefacts crafted in small batches by our cottage industries showcase some surface pattern ingenuity—the intentional use of African art across everyday surfaces like fabric, wallpaper, ceramics, and bedding is still underexplored. The gap becomes even more stark in digital, industrial, and mass-manufacturing contexts, where African surface pattern design remains notably absent (or appropriated).

When I walk around my home, I see tea cups with Ethiopian-Orthodox design motifs, a beautiful carpet with Persian-inspired patterns, a Rubelli black leather sofa set designed in Italy but manufactured in China, an embroidered cushion in my Alstroemeria print (yay) and a few cultural artefacts collected in local markets and within the region. But much of my furniture is plain—a mustard cushion, a neutral ottoman, and white textured curtains, mostly made from fabrics produced in the East. When you look around, you might notice it too—plain design dominates. Influences like Dieter Rams’ minimalism linger, while American, British, and Asian aesthetics are everywhere.

Nanjala design alstroemeria embroidery on a 100% calico fabric (left) and Teresa Lubano seated on a sofa working on a laptop with the Alstroemeria cushion besides her
Close-up of the Alstroemeria flower embroidered on 100% calico cushion cover (left). Author seated with the limited edition cushion. Image and Design: 2025 © Nanjala Design

Some of it comes down to personal taste, but much more to what’s available—what we inherited from colonial ties, what’s stocked in stores, and what gets manufactured. African-inspired pattern, styles and colour in everyday design remain limited, not due to lack of demand, but because the industry isn’t developed enough to meet it.

That’s why I believe surface pattern design holds massive potential—to embed African stories, symbols, and identities into the objects we live with every day. Not just as decoration, but as a form of cultural code on canvas, cotton, and even crockery.

African surface pattern design has already made its mark in textiles and packaging, where its visual language is celebrated. But we must push further. It’s time to move beyond surface aesthetics and embed this design thinking into the full spectrum of African-made products—not just what we wear, but who we are. From tiles to textiles, bedding to architecture, our patterns should signal ownership, not just adornment. As Pei (2016) argues, there’s a growing need to integrate cultural dimensions into sustainable development, yet the role of cultural sustainability remains vague in theory and practice. By placing African design at the heart of local manufacturing, we honour our heritage while driving innovation, production, and economic sovereignty (Lubano & Odundo, 2022).

split screen of a bike illustration by Nanjala Design and the print from this illustration called Baiskeli zugu by Nanjala Design
Illustration and Print Design: Baiskeli (2023). Baiskeli Zugu © 2025 Nanjala Design

So who are surface pattern designers? They are illustrators, graphic designers, printmakers, interior stylists. Anyone who can visualise a motif, sketch or digitally render it, and turn it into a repeatable pattern that can live on a product. At UndaMeta, we work with over 30 active, independent surface pattern designers on the platform. The community is growing—but we need to give it more visibility and viability.

To do that, we’ve built a licensing system that allows flexibility for buyers and fair reward for creators:

  • Limited Edition Fabric License: In the Pattern and Fabric limited edition clients can purchase exclusive fabric featuring limited-edition designs, with prices starting from $11.86 to $17.80 per meter. Each design is capped at 500 metres, and designers earn royalties. Full buyout licenses are also available for $400, after which the design is permanently retired.

  • Exclusive Worldwide License: This is a buyout model for elite African-inspired prints. For the Designer’s Exclusive edition, copyright is transferred to the buyer, and the pattern is permanently removed from our platform. Access is granted by formal application within a closed microsite. Each design is priced at $400 and typically includes two or more colourways, delivered via email. Designers receive 60% of the purchase price.

  • Custom Design License: For brands and organisations with specific needs. We create a fully custom pattern for $750, with a 3-year renewable license. To know more please contact us.

At UndaMeta, we’re committed to making authentic African digital design visible, viable, and valued. If you’re a buyer or brand looking for culturally rooted surface patterns, or a printmaker ready to license your work and earn from it, we’d love to hear from you. It’s time to move beyond consuming design from elsewhere. Let’s create our own visual language, own it, and share it with the world.

I would love to see, in my lifetime, Africa’s rich patterns digitally represented and brought to life in everyday products: Bogolanfini textile influences on speaker grills and laptop covers, Maasai beadwork motifs stitched into car interiors, Ndebele geometry wrapping around modular sofas, Nsibidi symbols guiding digital interfaces, Kuba cloth textures embossed on luxury handbags, and Adinkra signs integrated into smartwatch displays—wouldn’t you, too?

References

Briggs-Goode, A. & Townsend, K. (2011). Textile design: Principles, advances and applications. Elsevier.

Johnstone, T. K. (2017). Surface patterns, spatiality and pattern relations in textile design [Licentiate Thesis]. ISBN: 978-91-88269-53-9 (pdf)

Lubano, T., Odundo, F. (2022, July 18). AHSCE Nairobi Voucher Scheme Application Form_Teresa’s version [Concept note, email correspondence] (unpublished).

Pei X. (2016, March 6). Innovation meets Localism: An exploratory study on design strategy towards cultural sustainability. International Journal of Social Science and Humanity, 3(6), pp. 230-234. DOI:10.7763/IJSSH.2016.V6.648 230
 

Silver, E. (2022, June 15). What is Surface Pattern Design [Article]? Retrieved from elizabethsilver.com

 

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